Distinctive, thought provoking, engaging ... These are some of the terms that come to mind whenever I think of Margaret River’s Flowstone.
Distinctive, thought provoking, engaging, drinkable and always interesting but never boring.
These are some of the terms that come to mind whenever I think of Margaret River’s Flowstone.
The new releases from this outstanding small producer are some of the very best I have tasted.
Experienced winemaker Stuart Pym and friend Phil Giglia established Flowstone in 2013.
They were joined by Pym’s long-term partner, Janice McDonald, a couple of years ago after her stint as Howard Park’s director of winemaking – an important addition to the team.
The Pym and McDonald partnership goes back some way. In 1996, they established the Suckfizzle and in 1999 the Stella Bella wine brands. Both had key roles in the formation of Matilda Bay Brewing Co in the late 1980s.
Mr Pym left Stella Bella in 2013 to establish Flowstone, with clear views on wine styles and varieties he wanted to pursue.
A common thread that runs through the wines in the range is drinkability, especially with the Moonmilk red and white blended wines that are completely dialled into delicious current drinking.
Standing behind Flowstone is a keen awareness of regional identity told through the label design.
Two flowing brushstrokes represent the Margaret River horizon, and the flows of water through both landscapes.
The solid grey brushstroke on all labels represents the cave landscape, and the coloured brushstroke conveys the vineyard landscapes and wine varieties.
The reflection of the Flowstone name is inspired by the stunning reflection found in Lake Cave.
The entry level, if you like, is the Moonmilk range. There’s a red and a white.
Each blend combines varieties that produce beautiful primary fruit characters and wonderful texture.
The two recent releases are as good as I can recall, with their brightness and vibrancy.
The mid-price range, which includes cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and touriga, offers both value and quality.
The Portuguese variety touriga fits right into the sumptuous current drinking wheelhouse for Flowstone. Soft, supple and generous.
At the top is the Queen of the Earth range I have featured.
I have long been a fan of the sauvignon blanc, which is a somewhat atypical Australian style, showing more savoury, minerally characters.
The 2022 featured is outstanding and Mr Pym himself agrees it is one of his best.
The Queen of the Earth chardonnay is a product of the leaner 2021 vintage and, as a result, is a leaner style than previously.
I like the direction and would love to see this as the style for the future.
Still, who am I to say.
And finally, the Queen of the Earth cabernet.
Balance and polish are features of Mr Pym’s wines and this is especially apparent with this one. With the Pym and McDonald combination I’m confident Flowstone will continue to go from strength to strength. Go with the Flow.
Flowstone Queen of the Earth sauvignon blanc 2022 ($63)
Made in a similar way to the standard savvy but gets an extra six months in the mix of demi-muid and ceramic egg vessels. Lifted gooseberry with a pebbly vanilla bean and stone fruit combo in the nose. The palate reveals more minerally and savoury notes that complement the rich texture. Sustained acidity and a fine flinty edge complete a very good wine.
Score 96/100
Cellar: 6 years
Flowstone Queen of the Earth chardonnay 2021 ($63)
One of the best chardonnays yet from Flowstone. This is more subtle and understated but no less intense and finely structured. Gets slightly more new oak than the standard with malolactic fermentation and an extra six months in oak. Beautiful aromas of citrus and melon zest with a little edgier lime. On the palate richer notes of brioche and mealy oatmeal emerge. Has a fine flinty acidity that balances the rich fruit and sustains the tension in a long finish.
Score 97/100
Cellar: 10 years
Flowstone Queen of the Earth cabernet sauvignon 2019 ($63)
A little more new oak and barrel selection has produced an exceptional wine from this cooler season in Margaret River. Aromas of red currant, dried herbs and subtle bay leaf with a seashell-like minerality. The palate is medium to full-bodied with a firm structural core of chalky tannins and fine-grained oak. Supremely balanced and has poise. Will certainly come into its own with extended cellaring.
Score 95/100
Cellar: 15 years
- Ray Jordan is one of Australia’s most experienced and respected wine journalists, contributing to newspapers and magazines over more than 40 years. In 2017 he co-authored The Way it Was: The History of the early years of the Margaret River Wine Region
