Swinney is right on song with the release of its Farvie range from the 2022 vintage.
Finally, the management at Swinney has fine-tuned its act and got the Farvie band together.
And what a harmonious group it has turned out to be. Initially, Swinney’s Farvie release was a duo, and a mighty fine duo at that.
However, the intention was always to create a trio, but it meant an audition from mourvèdre to meet the group’s exacting standards.
And then, when mourvèdre finally found its groove with the ’21 vintage, the ’21 grenache was a little out of tune.
But now, the groundbreaking offering from Swinney’s Frankland River vineyard is right on song with the release of all three wines from the ’22 vintage.
The fact it has taken until now to release the complete Farvie set is testament to owner Matt Swinney’s commitment to quality.
If a current vintage is not up to Farvie standard, it won’t be released.
It’s an expensive decision, too.
These wines sell for $150, and to declassify the fruit to the standard Swinney range is a tough financial decision.
In the end, these decisions between Mr Swinney and winemaker Rob Mann are based on an assessment of the season and the resulting fruit in the winery.
Varieties such as grenache suit warmer sunny conditions, while syrah and mourvèdre can work well in slightly cooler years.
The ’22 vintage met all the requirements, resulting in first-class fruit with which Mr Mann could do his thing.
The three varieties are the classic staple varieties of France’s Rhone region, but over the past 20 years have found a home in Australia.
Shiraz, or syrah as it is often called, has been part of the Australian wine scene from the very start of viticulture in this country.
Grenache has been around for a long time, too, but until relatively recently was more a blending option.
And mourvèdre, often called mataro, has also been a blending option for much of its life in Australia.
More recently, mourvèdre and grenache have emerged as distinctive and expressive varietals in their own right.
There are really two parts of the Farvie story.
The first is the dry-grown vineyard: fastidiously managed using organic principles with intensive shoot and fruit thinning, which drops yield but ensures quality.
And the second is the winemaker, Mr Mann, whose deft touch caresses the fruit, teasing out its inherent beauty and varietal expression.
It’s a compelling combination.
If a third element were to be added to this equation it would have to be the absolute commitment of the Swinneys, – Matt and sister Janelle – to put quality above quantity without compromise.
The ’22s have just been released, and my strong advice is that if you intend drinking them now, then decant some hours before you drink.
They are still very tight and will take time to release. Even better, hold them in the cellar.
Swinney Farvie grenache 2022 ($150)
Nice to have this wine back in town after an absence in 2021. The power and concentration of the vineyard and the style is immediately evident. The intensity strikes immediately on the nose, while once the wine starts to roll across your palate you know you’re in a head zone of great power. It was a warm and concentrated vintage. Brilliant crimson colour with a bright luminosity and purity that lifts effortlessly from the glass. Floral notes with a dried herb-like sage bush character engages immediately. Dry chalky tannins with a trace of minerally iron filings. It’s vibrant and fleshy with real volume of flavour. Continues to mark its turf as an Australian classic.
Score 98/100
Cellar: 16 years
Swinney Farvie mourvedre 2022 ($150)
This is the second vintage of the Farvie mourvèdre and takes the excellent ’21 up a notch. It has a dry, savoury and slightly ferruginous character offsetting the sweet floral notes on the nose. The palate is a superb interpretation of the variety in these Frankland soils. There is a slightly greater volume of fruit than ’21, but it retains the same old-world charm and expression. Chalky tannins and balanced use of oak. I tasted this about four months apart and already the shy middle palate I first saw has started to unfurl. Energy and vibrancy set this apart. A worthy addition to the Farvie trio.
Score 98/100
Cellar: 15 years
Swinney Farvie syrah 2022 ($150)
I think this has claims to be the finest Farvie syrah yet in its relatively short history. The colour is just brilliant and bright with a glowing purely crimson hue. Power, intensity and concentration is delivered with such poise. Bright red fruits with floral dark cherry and a little black olive adds to its nuanced capture on the nose. The palate is sublime, almost perfect, in its structure, poise and delivery. The sweet natural fruits are balanced and aligned with the fine minerally, ironstone ferruginous characters. Continues to redefine the Australian varietal style.
Score 99/100
Cellar: 18 years
- Ray Jordan is one of Australia’s most experienced and respected wine journalists, contributing to newspapers and magazines over more than 40 years. In 2017 he co-authored The Way it Was: The History of the early years of the Margaret River Wine Region
