REVIEW: Passion for riesling hits the sweet spot at Pemberton’s Bellarmine Wines.
Willi Schumacher is a pathologist from northern Germany with a passion for wine, especially riesling.
So, why did he decide to pursue his passion for riesling in a remote part of Australia when his homeland makes the world’s greatest rieslings?
In short, he wanted to make cool climate rieslings from the New World.
That was in 1999 and 2000, when there was considerable focus on Australia with the Olympics.
A sommelier friend of Mr Schumacher had come back from Australia with a glowing endorsement of Pemberton and the potential for riesling.
Making wines in the New World also came with the added attraction of not being confined by rules and regulations that govern the vineyards and winemaking of the Old World.
The intention when the Bellarmine Wines’ vineyard was planted was to make just one riesling style: an off-dry wine.
However, winemaker Di Miller, who had been involved at Bellarmine from the start, toured Germany’s wine regions with Mr Schumacher and quickly formed the view Pemberton would be suited to exploring the sweeter styles of wines as well as the dry.
The result is the Auslese style.
In many ways it is surprising that more riesling is not planted in this region, but winemakers have opted for pinot, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc as hero regional varieties.
The crisp and keen natural acidity of this cooler region with its slightly longer hang time on the vine is perfect for making both the drier fine style and the sweeter styles that can carry a lot of residual sugar but retain a fine, precise palate profile.
Although riesling was the focus from the start, varieties including chardonnay and pinot noir were planted.
Last year, with growing confidence in the quality of the chardonnays and pinots, Ms Miller decided the combination of a great vintage and established vines (20-plus years) made it the right time to produce a reserve wine from both varieties.
It was an inspired decision, and the results speak for themselves.
The quality of the fruit has influenced the winemaking approach.
For Ms Miller, it’s a largely a hands-off approach with a combination of new and older French oaks, some partial natural malolactic fermentation and in the case of the chardonnay, a small amount of battonage.
It appears Bellarmine owner Mr Schumacher is happy with his investment in Pemberton.
He doesn’t visit the place, but the wines are dutifully sent back each year.
Bellarmine Reserve Block B pinot noir 2023 ($55)
Made in good years (and this was a very good year). Lots happening on the nose as a mix of lightly stewed fruit with a lift of gamey meats and cherry takes hold. The palate displays great complexity with a gamey, truffle subtlety merging with the primary cherry and plummy blackberry characters.
Score 93/100
Cellar: Seven years
Bellarmine Reserve Block A chardonnay 2023 ($48)
A little more winemaking has gone into capturing the best of this marvellous vintage. A combination of lees stirring in a mix of oaks, several months maturation on lees, and partial malolactic fermentation has contributed to its texture and layered complexity. Aromas of stone fruit augmented with a little struck match. The palate is finely integrated with the savoury, limey influence carrying through to the fine long finish. Excellent wine.
Score 95/100
Cellar: Eight years
Bellarmine Select riesling 2023 ($28)
A wine that carries a high degree of sweetness, yet the balanced acidity keeps it keen and fine without ever cloying. Notes of citrusy lime dominance with a little orange peel complexity. Beautifully focused finish. Love this style.
Score 94/100
Cellar: Seven years
- Ray Jordan is one of Australia’s most experienced and respected wine journalists, contributing to newspapers and magazines over more than 40 years. In 2017 he co-authored The Way it Was: The History of the early years of the Margaret River Wine Region
