The Fremantle Guide: Where to Eat in 2023
By WA Good Food Guide
From the freshest catches of the day to menus that defy convention and cocktail artistry that mesmerises, Fremantle beckons food enthusiasts with open arms and an open palate. Here’s where to start.
Ethos Deli + Dining Room
Ethos Deli + Dining Room is about many things, from Melissa Palinkas and Susan Whelan’s love of New York deli culture to the Hungarian and German elements of Palinkas’ family tree. Matzo ball soup could sell itself on its flavour-packed chicken broth alone, let alone wholesome dumplings. Wagyu steak with Diane sauce and heaped local mushrooms may err to chefiness but it’s high on nostalgic feels and again has that comfort factor. To seal the deal? Good cake by the slice, to eat in or to go.
88 George Street, East Fremantle; ethosdeli.com.au
Peggy’s
This whitewashed corner shop has become an early-morning hub, with queues forming for the oozing four-cheese toastie or English muffins stuffed with sausage, egg and cheese. Bread is no afterthought here, with sesame-seed subs and a signature Italian-herb sourdough focaccia made on site. Come lunch, that focaccia serves as the base for the BLT, which perfectly pairs smoky bacon with the freshness of tomato, lettuce, and a generous spread of herby mayo. Keeping a good thing going, chef Harry Peasnell uses the same delicious mayo on the Schnitty, the sauce a creamy base for panko-crumbed chicken, cheddar and iceberg lettuce.
35 Market Street, Fremantle; eatpeggys.com
Suku
Suku is the Indonesian diner you need in your life. Is it the beef rendang curry – deep, dark, mysteriously earthy, redolent of roasted coconut and rich with spice – that’ll have you wooed? Or the nasi Bali with pulled chicken, peanuts and egg, made snappy with chicken “crackling”? Perch at the stools overlooking the kitchen and take the sting out of the minced chicken sate that you slathered with just a bit too much sambal matah by finishing with nutty and earthy flavoured black sticky rice, laced with coconut cream.
28 William Street, Fremantle; sukufreo.com
Bread in Common
It’s easy to forget how impressive Bread in Common’s warehouse setting is. The perfectly set communal tables, walls lined with wine, tables stacked with Coogee Common produce. The house-bread is an essential; dip it in unctuous lamb gravy for double the pleasure. The lunch-only steak sandwich, with deeply caramelised onions and provolone, should only be shared in an emergency, same goes for the bread and butter pudding swimming in a drinkably-rich caramel, topped with clever burnt-toast ice-cream. The wine list, meanwhile, is well-considered, the by-the-glass scrawled on blackboards and poured by staff eager to share a recommendation.
43 Pakenham Street, Fremantle; breadincommon.com.au
La Cabaña
La Cabaña is the neighbourhood joint we all wish we had down the road, a leafy, colourful spot for an afternoon with friends where drinks quickly turn into dinner in the chilled surrounds of the patio. When dishes land, they’re vibrant and vegetable-laden, with an even spread of locally caught seafood and meat options. Char-grilled corn cobbettes are sweet, salty and smoky, while the spice-braised eggplant tostada has sweetness from toasted coconut and crunch from snake beans. Tortillas, meanwhile, are pliant and fresh and make sound bases for crowd-pleasing tacos. Local wines pair with the spice on the menu, but cocktails – and the extensive tequila and mezcal selection – are where it’s at.
400 South Terrace, South Fremantle; lacabana.com.au
Madalena’s
Adam Rees’ cooking is bracing and to the point: sweet, plump prawn ceviche is matched with avocado and lychee; raw mackerel is paired with pink grapefruit, smoked crème fraîche and bitter greens. A main course of firm-fleshed toothfish topped with barbecued mushrooms and a smoked bone velouté is fish cookery at its finest. Non-fish options are just as enticing, including a killer duck-liver parfait swathed in vermouth jelly. Vegetables and salads are also winners. But the best reason to come is for the vibe and Rees’ incredibly delicate touch with all manner of creatures from the sea.
406 South Terrace, South Fremantle; madalenasbar.com.au
Nieuw Ruin
Where so many chefs are happy to recycle trends or crib influences, Blaze Young of Nieuw Ruin treads her own path. Who else would have the confidence to serve marron not in its shell, but chopped up, turned through mace-spiked butter and baked just to the point of being set? Or to stuff cauliflower cheese into a filo pie served atop a pool of French onion gravy?
When things are simpler, like with deboned, butterflied whiting or trout grilled over coals, the execution is spot on. There’s an energy to the place, too, thanks to a floor team who’ll guide you through the wine offer with ease, or steer you to their favourite cocktails on a list backed by real talent on the tins.
12 Norfolk Street, Fremantle; nruin.com
La Lune
La Lune sits so comfortably on an ambient East Fremantle strip it could have been there for years. But as timeless as a glass of Loire Valley Cheverny paired with a bowl of moules frites feels, La Lune is also very now.
In the kitchen, it’s all about modern takes on classics. Pemberton trout comes meurnier-style, with plenty of butter kept in check with lemon and capers. Duck breast is ferried past with lentils and bitter greens riding shotgun. And steak comes with good frites and a gravy boat of sauce béarnaise. Breakfast flies out of the open kitchen just as easily, but lunch or late afternoon is the time to share charcuterie boards, cheese, good terrine and wine.
73 George Street, East Fremantle; lalunefremantle.com
Republic of Fremantle
So often, distillery bars come off as an afterthought or an indulgent branding exercise. That’s not the case at Republic of Fremantle – what’s offered here is an elevated hospitality experience, backed by service smarts and skill. Drinking well is a guarantee, especially if signature cocktails are the route you choose. A Spritz built from bay-infused house vodka, plums, umeshu and white tea promises layers of flavour. Chef Emily Jones not only knows good local produce, but what to do with it, laying Futari wagyu tartare over house-made buckwheat waffles, say. All up, it’s an accomplished package; a polished reflection of the way we like to drink and snack, right here right now.
3 Pakenham Street, Fremantle; republicoffremantle.com
Jetty Bar & Eats
Jetty has two personalities: friendly bistro by day, busy bar by night. But whether you’re inside in the airy, open space or out by the water, the offering stays the same, driven by share plates that lean Mediterranean, and plenty of seafood.
The fish finger sandwich – featuring panko-crumbed fillet – is an elevated take, with pickled onion and special sauce giving it a lift. For something more hefty, orange and pimentón-spiced chicken is carved onto gyros spread with tangy cacik (that is, yoghurt and cucumber sauce). Pair it with aperitivo – Spritzes, Margaritas and ice-cold craft beers are in abundance.
126 Beach Street, Fremantle; jetty.bar
Wild in the Street
For a lesson in how to take a simple mixed drink to a whole new level, consider the Roma Paloma at Wild in the Street. Tequila, lime and grapefruit soda play their usual parts, but it’s the addition of a zesty tomato shrub that brings exciting, unexpected depth to the equation. House-made empanadas are essential ordering, rustically folded and charred at their edges. Smoke, meanwhile, is a recurring theme in more elaborate dishes like smoked beetroot carpaccio blotted with tangy tonnato. Sink into a booth, and soak up the quirky and colourful spirit of this port hub on the up and up.
2/388 South Terrace, Fremantle; wildinthestreetfreo.com.au
