REVIEW: Howard Park’s WA, national and global reputation is built on quality wines underpinned by a strong sense of family.
Howard Park has been part of the Western Australian winescape for nearly four decades, offering an exceptional range of wines across different varieties, styles and prices.
Now, almost 40 years in, it’s clear this family-owned winery is moving into a new phase in its evolution.
Jeff and Amy Burch took the first, tentative steps in their wine journey in 1988 when they bought a Margaret River property, which would later become the Leston vineyard.
Five years later, they became involved with Howard Park, which had been established in the Great Southern in 1986.
In 1998, the Burch family took sole control of Howard Park and have since poured their passion for wine into the business, growing it into an iconic producer with a national and global reputation for its wines.
And always with the sense of family. Success has been built on the Burches’ unbridled commitment and drive, working tirelessly in their pursuit of making quality wine.
A succession of very good winemakers, clever choices of vineyard locations and subsequent acquisitions, and a clear focus on maximising regional, varietal and stylistic strengths, have all contributed to bringing Howard Park to its current preeminent standing among WA wine producers.
So impressed am I with the recent releases it was inevitable they would be named producer of the year in my WA Wine Review 2025.
The vineyards now span several regions but remain firmly in family hands, with the second generation of Burches – daughter Nat and son Richard – taking greater control, albeit I suspect under their parents’ watchful gaze.
In addition, the sense of family was deepened when Nic Bowen, son of Rob Bowen, one of the state’s finest winemakers, joined as chief winemaker.
Mr Bowen brings the next iteration of influence.
Building on the excellent fruit-sourcing options, he has a clear focus on creating a style that is subtle, expressive, and true to varietal and regional integrity.
Howard Park has five vineyards: Leston and Allingham in Margaret River, Forest View in Pemberton, and Mount Barrow and Abercrombie in the Great Southern.
Each site has a differing focus and personality, producing varieties that capture the best of the regions.
At the pinnacle of the portfolio is the Abercrombie cabernet, with the latest the best yet.
It’s joined by the Allingham chardonnay, which is moving into another zone with some of Mr Bowen’s subtle tweaks.
Howard Park’s investment in its Leston vineyard is also paying off, especially with cabernets.
From the outset, riesling from the Mount Barker and Porongurup regions has been outstanding, consistently delivering exceptional quality.
The remarkable ageing potential of these wines was evident at a tasting earlier this the year of selected vintages going back more than 15 years.
The Burches’ lifelong love of sparkling wine was behind construction of a sparkling wine facility at Howard Park in Margaret River.
The equipment for making sparkling wine isn’t cheap but is a further example of the reality-follows-passion approach to producing wines.
These days, the second-generation team at Howard Park is continuing the tradition established by their parents: Natalie as general manager and director, and Richard as sales and marketing director.
The challenges they face in the new world of climate change, declining global consumption and rising costs are different from those faced by their parents, but the family remains committed to the principles that have underpinned the winery for nearly four decades.
Howard Park Allingham chardonnay 2023 ($100)
An outstanding chardonnay from the Allingham vineyard at the cool Karridale subregion. Exquisitely integrated and woven together with subtlety and precision. It gets down to each barrel, where decisions are made on malolactic fermentation and the degree of lees stirring. The result is a marvellous wine displaying freshness and vibrancy with typical notes of citrus, grapefruit and white peach permeating throughout. Has a dry savoury minerality to finish. Exceptional wine.
Score 98/100
Cellar: 10 years
Howard Park Abercrombie cabernet sauvignon 2022 ($155)
This pinnacle of the Howard Park red wine stable is now a 100 per cent cabernet sauvignon off the Leston vineyard in Margaret River. The result is a firmer and more classically Bordeaux-styled wine with a distinctive Margaret River nuance. There is lifted bright red fruit on the nose with notes of violet and blackcurrant, merging with other lifts of cedar and spices. The structure is still quite taut with firm chalky tannins threading deep and long. The cedary oak sits comfortably within the concentrated and intense fruit weight on the palate. This is a wine of long-term ageing potential.
Score 98/100
Cellar: 25 years
Howard Park Flint Rock pinot noir 2023 ($32)
Such an enjoyable and approachable pinot. Bright fruit notes of strawberry and a little underlying sour cherry with subtle notes of mushroom and damp earth. Perfectly integrated palate with fine, firmish tannins and neatly applied oak supporting the truly vibrant fruit characters. There’s a delicacy amid structure and poise. Nice chalky tannins wrap things up neatly.
Score 93/100
Cellar: Four years
- Ray Jordan is one of Australia’s most experienced and respected wine journalists, contributing to newspapers and magazines over more than 40 years. In 2017 he co-authored The Way it Was: The History of the early years of the Margaret River Wine Region
